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Drake Bay and Corcovado Guide

The Osa Peninsula has been dubbed Costa Rica’s last wilderness frontier. It may very well be just that. Rich in wildlife, sparsely populated and, until recently, having very difficult access, much of this highly forested area is conserved in national parks and private reserves. Towering rainforests line undeveloped beaches and untouched coves, making this region one of the most beautiful anywhere on earth.

In response to a growing eco-tourism market, many environmentally conscious lodges have opened up along the coast north of Corcovado national park. Drake Bay has become a premier destination, catering for vacationers who want to experience nature and comfort simultaneously. Nearby Caño Island is excellent for snorkeling and diving, while the deeper waters are great for sportfishing.

You can swim with dolphins, go horseback riding and swing through the trees on a canopy adventure. Dive with sharks; follow a tapir through the forests; or simply hang out drinking fine wine at any of the luxury lodges. That is how you experience Osa.
Around Town
It’s remote. Drake Bay has just one small village, Agujitas, a friendly place with a population of around 200. Agujitas is officially the last town in Costa Rica without electricity and everyone runs their houses and businesses on solar power or generators.
There is a small school, a few stores (selling only bare essentials) and a medical center.

Weather
It’s tropical humid here. Trade winds can deposit rain at anytime of the year, but there are distinct differences in precipitation throughout the year. The dry(er) season runs from January through April, with the wettest months being October, November and December. You may want to bring an umbrella. Shorts are indispensable, as the mercury climbs into the high 80s and low 90s.

Getting there
The inaccessibility of Osa has kept the region raw and untouched, and makes getting there even more rewarding.

By road: Drake Bay is accessible through Palmar Norte, requiring a sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicle (weather permitting). Consult your map and ask around for conditions; bridges may be washed out.

By boat: The best way to get here though is by boat along the river Sierpe. Your lodge should take care of the arrangements from the small river port village of Sierpe (a short taxi or bus ride from Palmer Norte). Independent Travelers can usually find space on one of the many small boats delivering passengers and supplies to Drake Bay lodges. The river mouth can be choppy, which makes for an exciting voyage.

By bus: Several buses depart daily from San José to Palmer Norte, arriving in around 6.5 hours (ask a taxi driver to drop you at terminal Tracopa in San José).

Nature Air and Sansa each have daily direct flights to Drake Bay, taking less than an hour. Check schedules at (www.natureair.com) and (www.sansa.com)

WHAT TO DO
Most lodges organize tours of the national park and surrounding areas. Check with your hotel, or pick from our list.
CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK
Bug spray and good boots are essential for a guided trip to the Serina or San Pedrillo rainforest stations. Lodges and travel companies can help you make arrangements. Those wishing to stay overnight must phone national park headquarters (233-4160) to reserve a room and meals. Alternatively, rough it: bring a tent and your own food. Access is by foot (advanced planning advised), boat or plane (contact Alfa Romeo aero taxi).

FISHING
There are three boats available for full- or half-day charters. Contact Aguila de Osa Lodge (www.aguiladeosa.com) or Fred Maschmeier at hotel “Ojalá” on his cell phone at 827-6168.

DIVING
Jinetes de Osa offer full PADI open-water certification courses as well as guided dives to the best offshore sites. Diving is excellent, with plenty of nooks and crannies full of colorful creatures in warm waters with great visibility. Visit (www.costaricadiving.com).
They also operate the nearby canopy tour. Dive trips can also be arranged through several lodges.

DOLPHIN TOURS
Spend a day (or five) swimming with dolphins and whales. For trips and accommodations contact “Delphin Amor” lodge.
Visit (www.delphinamor.com) for more information.

EXPLORING
Independent Travelers can hire bilingual guides through a local initiative agency staffed by qualified naturalists who will take you anywhere in the region (and nationwide).
Visit (www.corcovadoexpeditions.net), or contact your travel provider.

ACCOMODATIONS
Backpackers can camp at a variety of sites including the centrally located Rancho Corcovado lodge. Mid-range options are available such as Hotel Ojalá (phone 827-6168; ask for Fred). Plush lodges catering for high-end tourism provide excellent accommodations, food and excursions. One of the best is Aguila de Osa (www.aguiladeosa.com). There are further choices closer to the national park where you really can get away from it all. Phone Casa Roland in San José (231-6571) and ask about booking a room at Jungle Al’s, a great place to relax, enjoy the beach and drink beer. Alternatively, check your guidebook for comprehensive listings.
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