Snapshots from Yellowstone

A splash of fall color on the Obsidian Cliffs.

Lower Yellowstone Falls.

Norris Geyser Basin.

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The Original National Park

Head west from Sheridan, and the earth begins to buckle and heave skyward in a daunting display of tectonic fury. After an interminable journey across the Great Plains, the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies are a most welcome visual distraction.  The arrow-straight freeway dwindles into a two-lane strip of blacktop that curls up and down these granite wonders, out of the arid flatlands and into dense evergreen forests. Highway 14, if you find yourself on it, will lead you into Yellowstone National Park.

Yellowstone was officially formed in 1872, when America was a brash adolescent just beginning to create an identity for itself. The West was still largely untamed, a land Indians and buffalo and uncharted territory. An expedition to this area in 1870 included an artist and photographer, and their accounts convinced Congress to set aside the area as untouchable land. It become the first national park in the world.

Old Faithful

Initially, Yellowstone was founded to protect the incredible geothermal features, including the highest concentrations of geysers in the world. The park lies over a caldera, which is a collapsed volcano, that produces a cataclysmic eruption every 600,000 years or so (it’s been 640,000 since the last one, so it could go at any time). Because the earth’s magma sits just under the crust here, water filtering through the bedrock become superheated. The result is a menagerie of bubbling hot springs, some sporting a rainbow of colors; steam vents that emit a sulfuric vapor; bubbling mud pots; and geysers, which periodically shoot streams of water skyward, sometimes hundreds of feet.

Vapor coming off a thermal hot spring that reminds me of a Mark Rothko painting. The different colors come from bacteria that thrive in super-heated water. The lighter the color, the hotter the water.

An interesting unintended effect of forming Yellowstone is that we now have a large, open habitat for many large mammals that have been mostly eradicated from the rest of the West. As ranchers and development moved in, there was less and less land for bison, moose, elk, antelope, deer, grizzly bears and other animals to live. Fortunately for them, Yellowstone’s more than 3,000 square miles offer some space to roam.

The Old Faithful Inn

Tourists have plenty of space to move, too, although most concentrate along main paths and lodges. I’m staying with my family at the Old Faithful Inn, which is a miraculous piling of local lodgepole pine trees and stone from nearby quarries. The Inn might be called an original “green” building, but those things weren’t on anybody’s mind when it was built over 100 years ago. Instead, the idea was to provide classy accommodations to well-heeled travelers at the foot of Old Faithful geyser, the park’s iconic centerpiece. Today, the Old Faithful Inn has become much more pedestrian (and accessible to the masses), and sportcoats are not required in the dining room. Indeed, there is no dress code, so sandals and shorts are more common than a coat and tie.

Yellowstone is a magical place, where a peaceful sensation pervades. I find tranquility at a river’s edge, watching the current tumble into tiny cascades. I feel peace when the earth trembles with a tremendous release of energy as a tiny hole in the ground shoots mineral-rich water a hundred meters into the air. I watch the bison forage in clearings, and feel a kinship with my fellow mammals. Yellowstone, to me, brings clarity and the chance to reflect, away from everyday life.

A buffalo, shrouded in steam.

Here are some pictures from the last few days, including a couple shots of the mountains in neighboring Grand Teton National Park.

Sulfur deposits, just underneath a thermal stream.

String Lake, Grand Teton National Park.

Another view of String Lake.

Fall colors at Leigh Lake.

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Go West, Young Man

I-90 in South Dakota, east of the Missouri River.

Southern Minnesota and eastern South Dakota are a patchwork of corn and soybean fields pulled taught against the flat topography. It’s a bucolic picture of Midwestern landscapes punctuated by a few lonely farmhouses and the occasional water tower emblazoned with the name of a town whose tallest building is the grain elevator, a land of aw-shucks grins, Rockwellian vignettes and firm hi-how-are-ya handshakes. Until you get to the Missouri River. Then things change.

Approaching the Missouri, heading west.

The Missouri marks the beginning of the West. Immediately on the river’s western banks, the earth seems to buckle and boil upward. There are no crops. Instead, rocks burst from the soil, and only cattle seem to find value in the dirt. Every hill holds the expectation of the silhouetted of a man riding horseback, his Stetson pulled low over his eyes as he surveys the herd.

America’s West is a land of wide-open spaces, harsh landscapes and sublime gradations of colors splashed subtly across the barren terrain. Tumbleweeds drift across the highway. Exits on the freeway seem to lead to nowhere: look around you, and scrubby brush extends into the horizon. But there must be more: a sign reads Fallow Butte, 24, with an arrow pointing left. At this exit you are exactly 24 miles from nowhere.

Yet the road provides entertainment. Signs for Wall Drug are seen far more frequently than are other human beings; I’d bet that Wall Drug has the best highway advertising campaign since Burma Shave.

There is a destination on this road trip, however. I’m traveling with my mother, father, brother and sister on an full-family sojourn to Yellowstone National Park. Our family has long taken an annual drive out West, and even though we kids are all grown, it just so happened that we all were in the Twin Cities at the same time, with a week off. So we hit the road.

A traveler with more time could do well by stopping at the Badlands, Mount Rushmore, Deadwood, and all the attractions of the Black Hills. We only have a week, however, so we pushed on to Sheridan, Wyoming, where we spent the first night.

Downtown Sheridan, Wyoming.

Sheridan had its heyday about 100 years ago when it was a coal mining center for this part of Wyoming. Today it’s a pleasant little Western town, with Main Street lined with shops selling cowboy boots, antiques and cheap beer.

It’s the kind of town I could live in for a few months, I thought, but once winter settles in here it would get mighty lonely. Sheridan is over 100 miles from a town of any size, and a day’s drive from a real city. It made for a fun overnight, though, eating hamburgers and drinking beer amid cowboy hats worn earnestly and airwaves vibrating with country music and Christian preachers. Next stop: Yellowstone National Park.

My brother Nick. He decided on the cheeseburger.

We're in cowboy country.

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Apoye al Club de Remo Feminino Turrialba

Este equipo local de expertas en rafting se ha clasificado para ir al Panamericano de Rafting en Brasil este año. Sin embargo, su equipo todavía carece de algunas necesidades para poder ir. Acá les copio una carta que me mandaron. ¡A ver cómo las apoyamos!

Compañeros,

Saludos cordiales de parte de todo el equipo Club de Remo Femenino Turrialba. Nosotras somos el equipo femenino clasificado para ir al Panamericano de Rafting Brasil de este año, decidido en el pasado Campeonato Nacional el pasado noviembre en el Río Tenorio Corobici. Consideramos de suma importancia la participación de Costa Rica en este evento tomando en cuenta que el siguiente mundial será en Costa Rica 2011 e incluso el pre-mundial del 6 al 10 de Octubre del 2010.

Nosotras ya hemos participado en un par de competencias internacionales, el Camel Back de Chile 2000, el Panamericano de Argentina en el 2008, el Mundial en Boznia en el 2009 en donde tuvimos una muy buena participación, esto nos ha consolidado más como equipo. Actualmente tenemos un entrenador de amplia experiencia en participaciones internacionales y trabajamos a un buen ritmo de entrenamiento, somos no solamente un equipo de rafting sino como nuestro nombre lo dice un club de remadoras, personas sin experiencia en rafting se inician con nosotras, promovemos no sólo la actividad física y el deporte sino también la igualdad de género en un deporte como el rafting que casi siempre ha sido visto como deporte de hombres. Nuestra labor es meramente por pasión al deporte y la dedicación requiere sacrificios y nosotras lo hacemos, pero sin el apoyo de terceros se nos es imposible costearnos las competencias internacionales.

Todo es una cadena de beneficios, si nosotros mejoramos nuestro nivel competitivo el nombre de Costa Rica crece y no sólo este, el nombre del Rafting en Costa Rica crece y esto es bueno para todas las compañías de turismo y aventura. Un fogueo internacional de esta índole es vital en la preparación del equipo en especial si queremos hacer un buen papel en el Mundial de Costa Rica 2011 en donde seremos anfitriones.

Nosotras le pedimos que considere la posibilidad de ayudarnos para poder ir al Panamericano de Rafting en Brasil que es en unas semanas y nos falta muy poco. El equipo tiene múltiples necesidades, no sólo de tiquetes aéreos para las competencias sino también equipo y demás.

Nosotras le pedimos que lo analicen y que piensen en nosotras como un impulso del deporte, una inversión no una donación. A continuación les desglosamos las necesidades del equipo, recuerden que no hay pequeños colaboradores, cualquier cosa con la que nos puedan ayudar es una paso más.

Sin más que decir se despide

Club de remo femenino de Turrialba

Si usted gusta hablar directamente con el equipo, o tiene alguna otra forma de ayudarnos puede comunicarse al 87230259 con Omara Fuks o escribirnos a clubderemofemeninoturrialba@hotmail.com

Algunos de los beneficios que usted obtendrá son:

• Poster del equipo que dice Patrocinador de la Selección Femenina de Rafting
• Logo en nuestra camiseta de patrocinadores, que es la oficial que utilizamos en los eventos públicos y demás
• Publicidad directa en el exterior con panfletos, calcomanías, camisetas o cualquier cosa que deseen llevar
• También podemos presentar un video de ustedes o repartir allá videos u otro material ya que el próximo año más de 40 equipos que vendrán a Costa Rica para el mundial

Mil gracias a todos!

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Encuesta de lectores: viajes favoritos

Necisito su ayuda.

Estamos trabajando en un artículo para la próxima edición de Traveler, que se tratará de itinerarios para turistas norteamericanos, europeos y ticos. Los norteamericanos suelen permanecer unos 8 días en el territorio nacional, y los europeos 15. Para los ticos, me gustaría hacer un itinerario de tres días y otro de una semana completa. Entonces, viajeros y profesionales en turismo, ¿cuáles son sus sugerencias?

Cuéntenos sobre sus destinos favoritos, lugares perfectos y secretos para lograr un buen viaje.

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Reader Survey: Favorite Trips

I need your help.

We’re working on a piece for the next issue of Traveler in which we wish to present three different sample travel itineraries: one for North American visitors, one for European visitors, and one for Ticos. Generally, North Americans visit for eight days and Europeans for 15.  For Ticos, I’d like to do both a three-day weekend and full-week trip. So, travelers and tourism professionals, what are your suggestions?

Let us know your thoughts, favorite spots and perfect itineraries.

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Some Interesting Reads

I’ve run across a few interesting websites that speak of the tropical experience. I like to check in on them once in a while.

The Tico Times Blog Little by little Costa Rica’s main English-language newspaper is getting with the times. I like the short post with the New York Time’s Matt Gross.

Garland Baker I’ve been reading Mr. Baker’s articles on www.amcostaica.com for years now. Here, on his site, you can find a boatload of articles he’s written. Mr. Baker’s articles at times may seem vitriolic to some, but in my experience his account of lo bueno, lo malo y lo feo of living in Costa Rica is spot on.

Panama Guide I just ran across this site a couple of days ago when looking into the pair of gringo serial killers who were supposedly in Costa Rica. Don Winner is the journalist at work here, and if you read backwards from when the story broke, it is actually quite enthralling. Mr. Winner does editorialize frequently throughout his reporting, but I guess that’s just another byproduct of blogosphere. Caveat lector.

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Consejos al visitar el Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

Si desea tener la playa principal del Manuel Antonio (dentro del parque, la más famosa) para usted mismo, recomiendo llegar temprano. El parque abre a las 7 am pero los turistas en su mayoría van con el guía a paso lento, recorriendo los 1.8 kms que hay del puesto de entrada hasta la playa observando aves, perezosos, monos y toda la vida silvestre del parque. Contratar un guía es una buena idea para que este le ayude a encontrar los animales escondidos en el bosque.

Pero si quiere llegar de primero, diríjase directo a la playa, siéntese en la arena o camine por la orilla del mar…. así tendrá una de las playas más famosas de Costa Rica solo para usted (junto con algunos monos cariblancos) al menos por un rato.

Cuando lleguen los turistas y aun así desea un poco de privacidad le recomiendo irse a playa Espadilla sur, a uno 50 mts de playa Manuel Antonio. Es un poco menos visitada y tiene espacios aislados unos de otros y es más extensa.

Este atento a los monos cariblancos y mapaches que estarán al tanto de sus salveque para sacar la comida que tenga. Los vi en acción y son bastante atrevidos. Recuerde no alimentar a los animales.

Unos 50mts antes de llegar a la playa principal hay unos nuevos baños con duchas de agua fresca e inodoros.

Visite nuestro álbum de fotos de nuestra reciente visita al Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio.

Recuerde que el parque está cerrado los lunes.

- Andrés

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Citizen Security Petition

I just read this article at amcostarica.com regarding an expat-led effort to communicate the gravity of the security situation in Costa Rica. I too have been a victim of crime in Costa Rica (many times over), as have nearly all of my expat and Costa Rican friends. If things continue as they have, Costa Rica will lose the luster of its current reputation as a laid-back, safe, stable place to travel and live.

There is an online petition that you can currently read and decide to sign. The petition, which will be given to President Laura Chinchilla, currently has over 300 signatories. Of course, the petition has no legal bearing, but if enough people take the time to join this cause, maybe somebody in the government will take notice.

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Tips when visiting Manuel Antonio Natl. Park

If you’d like to have Manuel Antonio’s famous beach (the one inside the park) all to yourself, go early. The park opens at 7am, but most tourists go with a guide. These groups slowly make their way along the 1.8 km that lead to the beach, looking for birds, sloths, monkeys and all the diverse wildlife in the park. Hiring a guide is a good idea if you wish to see these hidden residents of the forest.

But if you want to be the first one on the sand, head straight for the beach, sit under a palm tree or walk along the edge of the ocean. You’ll have one of Costa Rica’s most famous beaches all to yourself, save for the white-faced monkeys, for a while.

If when the tourists arrive you still want some privacy, I recommend heading to Playa Espadilla Sur, about 50 meters from Playa Manuel Antonio. This beach is less visited, larger and there are plenty of good spots to set down you towel away from others.

Be aware that the monkeys and raccoons are watching your backpack, waiting to steal your food. I’ve seen them in action and they’re quite bold. Remember not to feed the animals.

About 50 meters before arriving at the main beach there are new restrooms with refreshing cold-water showers and toilets.

Remember that the park is closed Mondays.

Check out our recent photo album on Manuel Antonio National Park.

- Andres

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